So last week I had to patch a water damaged spot in my own kitchen ceiling, like a 2x2 foot area. I usually use paper tape for everything, but I figured I'd give the mesh stuff a shot since I had a roll sitting around. Big mistake. The mud just crumbled right through the holes and I had to scrape it all off after it dried lopsided. I spent an extra 3 hours redoing the whole thing with paper tape and it came out smooth as glass. Has anyone else had mesh tape fail on ceilings or did I just get a bad batch?
I was working a commercial build with a new crew and the foreman showed me how he pre-fills his butt joints with hot mud before taping. He said it cuts down on bubbles and cracking later. I tried it on my next three jobs and I gotta say, the finish is way smoother with less sanding. Has anyone else found a method that just clicked after seeing it in person?
Had a ceiling job go bad this morning. 12 sheets of 5/8 firecode on a commercial lobby. First screw gun died after the third sheet. Battery just gave out. Dug out my old impact driver from the truck. Worked like a charm. No wrist strain at all. Anyone else keep a backup tool handy for days like this?
Ran into a corner that had water damage about 3 inches wide. Spent 4 hours trying to patch it with mesh tape and compound, and it still looked like garbage. Wondering if I should have just cut out a 2x2 foot section and started fresh. Which takes less time in the long run for you guys?
Last week on a job in Austin, this guy Dave who’s been hanging rock since the 80s told me I was wasting time using sanding screens on every coat. He said a damp sponge for the second coat cuts the dust in half and saves 20 minutes per room. Tried it on a 12x12 bedroom and he was dead right, my respirator filter barely clogged. Anyone else ditch the screen for a sponge on certain coats?
I spent 8 hours mixing up 90-minute mud for my 12x14 room and it kicked off before I could get half the seams taped, but the bucket of all-purpose I snagged at Home Depot for $18 let me work at my own pace and didn't dry into a rock, so am I the only one who thinks hot mud is overhyped for small jobs?
I used the same mud mix I always do for walls but it just let go on the ceiling after an hour. Did I need a stickier compound or should I have goosed the paper tape longer before hanging it?
Last week on a job in Oakville, I didn't clean my paddle mixer from the day before and thought a quick rinse was enough. Started mixing a new bucket of all-purpose and those dried chunks came loose into the fresh mud. Spent an extra 2 hours sanding out little bumps on a ceiling I had already taped smooth. Has anyone else had a batch ruined by not scrubbing the blade good enough?
Tbh, I spent like 3 years thinking you had to backroll every layer of joint compound to get a smooth finish. Then I was working on a job near Austin last summer, and this older guy I was sharing a site with asked why I was making extra work. He showed me how if you just lay it on right with the taping knife on the first two coats, you skip a whole step. Honestly, I tried it on my next room and saved about 45 minutes per wall. Has anyone else found a method they were taught that turned out to be optional?
Saw everyone online raving about those fancy offset stillson knives for cutting outlets and such. Figured I'd treat myself after a rough week. Thing is maybe a tiny bit faster than my old utility knife but not $60 worth of faster. Plus it leaves this weird burr on the paper every time. My $10 box cutter with a fresh blade still works better for 95% of what I do. Anyone else try one and end up going back to the basics?
The guy behind the counter said they don't rotate stock very often so I grabbed a fresh bucket from the back, has anyone else run into old compound that won't dry right from a store?
I had a job last Tuesday in a new build out in Plano, and my regular helper called in sick that morning. I figured I'd just push through and hung 62 twelve-foot sheets of 5/8 fire code by myself by noon. My foreman came by and just laughed, asked if I was trying to prove something. Have any of you had to pull a full day like that on your own?
Bought a cheap off-brand drywall lift off Amazon 3 months ago thinking I was smart saving cash. First job with 12-foot sheets, the thing tipped sideways on me and snapped a corner off a board. Called the supplier and they said the max rated height was for 8-foot sheets, not 12. Any of you guys tried one of those budget lifts or do you just stick to renting the good ones?
Last week I was doing a small bathroom job over on Elm Street, maybe 30 sheets total. I pulled out my old 6 inch taping knife that I've had since I started with my uncle back in 2008. It got me thinking about how we used to do everything by hand, no bazookas or automatic tapers, just a pan and some muscle. Three years ago I bought a banjo for the first time and it felt like cheating. Now I see guys my age rolling in with full pump setups and I wonder if we've lost something. Does anyone else still keep an old taping knife around just for the feel?
Thought I'd save time on a small bathroom job last Tuesday. Mixed up a batch, slapped it on. By the time I got to the second coat it was already setting up in the pan. Had to run and mix another batch. Wasted a half bag. What do you guys use for quick ceiling patches when you're in a pinch?
I was working on a 3,000 square foot house last month and had to decide whether to use paper tape or mesh tape on all the ceiling joints. Paper tape takes longer to bed in but gives a stronger bond with the compound. Mesh tape is faster but can crack if you don't mud it right. I went with mesh because I was under a tight deadline and the crew was pushing me to speed things up. Three weeks later I got a call about cracks in two of the corners. Now I'm going back to patch those spots and I wish I had just taken the extra day with paper tape. Has anyone else had mesh tape fail on flat ceiling joints like that?
Used to pile on three thick coats on every butt joint in Omaha homes. Switched to a lighter touch after a foreman told me I was wasting 2 buckets a house. Anyone else change their mudding style after a specific job site comment?
I was tracking my numbers for a job in Wichita and realized I put up 517 sheets of 5/8" firecode since the 1st. That's way more than my usual 350 or so, and my right shoulder has been barking for the last week straight. The extra 150 sheets came from a rush commercial buildout where we had a two week deadline instead of the normal four. Has anyone else pushed past their usual count and regretted it physically?
I was dead set on using paper faced metal corner bead on a 90 degree corner in a basement remodel last week. Took me 4 tries and 6 hours total to get it to stop popping because the compound kept drying too fast on the paper face. Has anyone else had this issue with paper faced bead or did I just grab a bad batch?
Last week I was finishing a basement job in San Antonio and the paper tape just kept bubbling on me. Been fighting with it for years. My supplier talked me into trying mesh for that job. I hated it at first but after doing 4 rooms I realized it's way faster and I don't get those stupid bubbles. The trick is you gotta use the right mud. Has anyone else made the switch and stuck with it?
I was reading through some trade journal my buddy left at the site last Tuesday. It had a spread on common drywall mistakes and said nearly 30% of callbacks come from mud that wasn't mixed right. That blew my mind because I always thought it was about taping or sanding issues. I've been mixing by eye for years, just eyeballing the water. Any of you guys measure out your mud mix or just go by feel?
I was ready to do it solo with just a T-brace, but after an hour of struggling, I caved and got the lift from the rental yard, which let me hang three 12-foot sheets perfectly flat in under two hours.
I was grabbing mud at the supply house and a guy was telling his helper to always use a drill with a paint mixer paddle, not just a stick. He said it cuts his mixing time down to about 2 minutes and gets rid of all the lumps. I tried it on a job this week and it made a huge difference, the mud was way smoother. Anyone else use a specific tool for mixing their mud?
I was doing a full basement finish and normally stick with a 6 inch knife for ceilings, but my buddy said to go bigger. The 10 inch let me lay down a much wider bed of mud in one pass, and it actually went on smoother with less pressure. I finished the whole 800 square foot ceiling a full hour faster than I estimated. Has anyone else switched up their knife size for ceilings and seen a real time save?